I cycle down to the riverfront, where the first thing I see
is a fisherman pull a 12 inch walleye from the water. He is one of the many riverside and boating
fishers partaking in the annual walleye run.
The riverfront is teaming with people, even though it is pretty early in
the morning. I am tickled at the range
of people enjoying the sight of the glistening water.
Underground Railroad Monument |
There
are all ages, all colors, women in hijab, and men in hard hats. There are youth with pants four sizes too big
walking along side hipsters with pants two sizes too small. There are grandmas with squirmy little
grandbabies sitting on lawn chairs watching their menfolk throw fishing line in
the water and watch the red floaters bob, bob, bob downstream. There’s a sailor all dressed in white
scrubbing the sidewalk leading up the Detroit Princess party boat. There’s even a few tourists having their picture taken with Underground Railway monument, standing alongside bronze statues, living and metal people peering mightily to the promised land of Canada just across the water.
scrubbing the sidewalk leading up the Detroit Princess party boat. There’s even a few tourists having their picture taken with Underground Railway monument, standing alongside bronze statues, living and metal people peering mightily to the promised land of Canada just across the water.
I am a bit of spectacle with my full touring regalia: helmet
and gloves, sun glasses, and most importantly, my low-slung bright yellow BOB
trailer. I see the
occasional walker turn a full 180 degrees to watch me go by. It tickles my fancy
to imagine they think me some exotic traveler making my way across the city on
this beautiful morning.
I leave the waterfront on the other side of the Milliken
State Park, past the swaying cattails and invasive phragmytes of the restored
marsh. I note my mileage (on my new
bicycle computer, of course) and see that I have travelled just over 4 miles
from my Southwest Detroit starting point.
I told Wes I was going to go down to the Belle Isle Bridge and
back. He shook his head ruefully, and
said, “That far?” I stuck out my chin at
him: “It’s only 15 miles!”
I curve back to the riverfront by Stroh Riverplace. I love this part of the Riverwalk, with its restored
buildings, boutique hotels, boat slips, and Coast Guard station. I am intrigued to see a Coast Guard cutter
being lowered to the water. The giant
crane looks like a huge praying mantis.
I am still feeling good as leave the riverfront, cross the
bumpity, bumpity cobblestone streets of old Iron Street, noting the ten or
fifteen new murals depicting the strengths and beauty of Detroit on the sides
of a rusting, wreck of old factory. I am still feeling good as I pass by the big
empty lot just before the Belle Isle Bridge.
Years and years ago, it was an industrial site for Goodyear, I
think. It has been too toxic for
redevelopment and has sat fallow as long as I have lived in Detroit. Today, it is abuzz with activities. All along the fence is banner after banner proclaiming
the upcoming Belle Isle Grand Prix. The
lots are being set up as service areas for the racing crews.
Well,
here is where I made my big mistake. If
I had “the sense god promised a billy goat”, as my mother would say, I would
have turned around right then and there, and started my homeward track. This
was the distance I told Wes I was going to take. It was a good run.
But no. Blinded by
the beauty and ecstasy of my ride thus far, I turn my bike onto the Belle Isle Bridge.
It is gorgeous to look up and down the
river. There are geese, and swans, and
ducks paddling with their babies. I am committed now. The Belle Isle run, if I circle the island is
another 5.5 miles. But hey, I’m feeling good, so why not?
I pull my trailer up the bridge, and notice for the first
time, how much drag the trailer creates on a hill. Flat Detroit is not very good training for
the Cascades and the Rockies which start our trip, I note. I huff and puff up the bridge, scream down
the other side, pushed by the trailer, find the corner to the right quite a bit
of challenge with the push of the trailer and drive right into….a construction
zone.
All along the river road, giant concrete barriers are being
put up along the race route for the Detroit Grand Prix (http://www.michronicle.com/index.php/news-briefs-original/11459-chevrolet-detroit-belle-isle-grand-prix-revs-up-for-summer-classic). The barriers block the view. I weave in and out of heavy equipment, teams
for workers, and trucks moving racing gear.
The workers stare at me. I am
sure they wonder what kind of fool would bring her bike and trailer into their
midst.
A few miles later, I finally leave the construction zone,
then pull into the party zone on the riverfront. It is a mess. Even though there are garbage cans every 25
yards or so, there are cans, bottle, wrappers, dirty diapers, food containers
and more everywhere. On the grass, on
the road. It is disgusting. This is the place where scads of teens hang
out on weekend nights. Every Monday
morning, the place is a wreck. By
Tuesday, the debris would be gone, but now, with budget cuts, it is still
sitting there on Thursday.
I leave the garbage zone and I notice that I am really starting
to get tired now. I have gone about 10
miles and it is starting to get hot. I
reach for my water bottle…empty. I am
not half way around the island, and I still have the whole way back to go.
By the time I get to the Detroit Yacht Club, I am only ¾ around
the island and I am pooped. I stop in
some shade, move my pannier to the other side because my right leg is hurting
and record a note on my phone and call Wes.
I tell him to meet me at our favorite coney island in half an hour. He asks me if I am all right. What can I say?
The ride back to the diner is long and hard. The river is still beautiful, but the temperature
is up. When I make it back to the
Underground Railroad monument, I am in “just keep going” mode. The tenth miles turn over so slowly on my
bike computer. When I turn away from the
river and make my way up the gradual climb up to Michigan Avenue, my legs hurt,
my forearms ache, and my shoulders are starting to knot.
I stop at a red light to catch my breath, having climbed the
bank of the former Cabacier Creek. While
I pant, a friendly fellow tells me “You don’t need to wait for the light, there
ain’t no traffic.” I wait anyway, glad
to be off my bike, even for a moment.
I meet Wes at the Coney.
I am sweaty, sore, and beat. I
have cycled 18 miles without a break, carrying a 40 pound load. Wes laughs out loud as we listen to the recording
I made of my pitiful self at the Yacht club. “What did you expect?”
I say to him, “Well, I have answered my question.” “What is that?” “Can I do twenty miles in a shot.” The answer is “yes, but…” After I cycle the remaining two miles home, I
have gone twenty miles, sure enough, but I will be sore tomorrow, and not worth
much today.
Yes, I can ride twenty miles with a load, but I have also
shown, once again, that I am poor, poor, poor at recognizing reasonable
boundaries. And not just on bicycle rides, I assure you.
Sean, you made it! Such a great description. I love reading your posts! Consider me a faraway fan!
ReplyDelete